Interior and fire-door installation sets the frame into the opening, hangs the leaf, fits hinges, handles, locks, and any closer, then adjusts the assembly to clear the finished floor. The frame must be square and the final floor build-up known before the hardware can perform properly.
When this work is needed
This work is needed when frames or leaves are replaced, room doors are redesigned, or a certified fire door is renewed. A change in floor thickness or removal of a threshold may also require a retained door to be rehung or trimmed, even when the leaf itself stays.
Decide before fixing the frame
Confirm the final dimensions and how the door must behave in use.
Opening width, height, wall depth, and the ordered frame size
Finished floor thickness, threshold detail, and required clearance below the leaf
Opening direction, furniture and circulation conflicts, and handle or lock location
Leaf and trim material, colour, hinge grade, and locking hardware
Fire certification, smoke seals, and the direction and closing speed of any door closer
Check in the quote
Make sure the scope reaches final adjustment after the surrounding finishes are complete.
Are the frame, leaf, trim, hinges, handles, and locking hardware all included?
Does the price cover removal, opening repairs, and controlled foam packing?
Is the bottom clearance based on the final floor build-up?
For a fire door, are certification, seals, and closer specification identifiable?
Who returns after flooring to test and adjust opening, closing, and locking?
What to check on site
The leaf can only be adjusted well if the frame starts straight. Set the frame from the finished-floor datum, then inspect the gaps, movement, and latch as one complete assembly.
01Install the door frame
Position the frame for the final floor thickness and required bottom gap. Check both jambs for plumb and the head for level, then remeasure after screws and expanding foam are applied so packing pressure has not distorted the opening.
02Hang door and install hardware
Hang the leaf and fit the trim, handle, lock, and closer where required. Confirm that each fixing meets the prepared reinforcement and that the latch enters naturally without pushing or lifting the door.
03Make final adjustments
Leave the door at several angles to check that it does not move by itself. Make the perimeter and floor gaps even, then confirm it clears walls and furniture, closes without rubbing, and locks cleanly.
Where problems usually start
Sagging leaf and failed lock alignmentA frame fixed out of plumb lets the leaf fall to one side and moves the latch away from its keeper.
Leaf scrapes the finished floorIf the frame is set without the final floor thickness, new timber or tile can close the intended gap below the door.
Impact damage to leaf and frameA closer set too fast repeatedly slams the assembly and can damage the leaf, frame, and hardware.
If the door moves by itself or will not latch, check frame plumb and hinge sag before shifting the keeper plate.
When the leaf touches the floor, review the final floor datum, hinge adjustment range, and all perimeter gaps before cutting the bottom edge.
Timing and records
Allow roughly one to two hours for one carpenter or door installer per leaf. Frame removal, opening repairs, heavy fire-door sets, and trim work can add time.
Record the opening and floor levels, handing, frame alignment, foam packing, leaf gaps, hardware, lock, and closer test. Photograph the bottom clearance again after the final floor is installed.
If you have photos of the frame and leaf or the product quote, I can help check the finished-floor allowance, clearances, and hardware scope.
